Navigate

A Tale of Two Hams

Grandma Wallace’s Pimento Cheese

Grandma Wallace’s Pimento Cheese. The spread played a key role in Wallace’s master’s thesis about Eugenia Duke, creator of Duke’s brand mayonnaise. (Photo by Lissa Gotwals)

Rivalryillustrateswriter’sexplorationofculturethroughfood

She didn’t notice it so much at the time, but growing up in rural Smithfield, N.C., put a chip on the shoulder of Emily E. Wallace ’10 (MA).

It was a chip made of ham bone.

Wallace, deputy editor of Southern Cultures, the journal of UNC’s Center for the Study of the American South, became aware when she dove into the pork-growing history of her hometown and a town with the same name in Virginia. The resulting article, “Ham to Ham Combat: The Tale of  Two Smithfields,” combines her scholarly research, illustrations and sense of humor, detailing a rivalry fueled by a shared name and devotion to ham. It was published by the Southern Foodways Alliance in the fall 2015 issue of its magazine, Gravy.

Emily Wallace

Emily Wallace ’10 (MA) (Photo by Lissa Gotwals)

As delicious as lightly smoked Johnston County ham on a warm biscuit, the article was a finalist in the humor category of the 2016 James Beard Awards. “It was a really great experience to be around so many food writers, editors and people that I admire,” said Wallace, who attended the ceremony with Sara Camp Arnold Milam ’12 (MA), Gravy managing editor.

Wallace took the scenic route to Carolina. After studying art and creative writing at Emory & Henry College in Virginia, she landed in Chicago in 2004 to study painting and illustration at the School of the Art Institute. Browsing in a used-book store, she learned about UNC’s folklore program, which struck her as a way to combine her interests in art and storytelling.

Writing about food became a focus after a class with Kelly Alexander, a former Saveur contributing editor who wrote a biography of groundbreaking food journalist Clementine Paddleford. The experience showed Wallace how food could help tell a larger story, such as her master’s thesis on the life and legacy of Eugenia Duke. The homemaker parlayed winning recipes for pimento cheese and chicken salad into a sandwich empire and is best known for 
creating Duke’s brand mayonnaise.

Wallace’s evocative writing made a strong impression on chef Sara Foster, which led to Wallace co-writing Foster’s Market Favorites in 2015. Wallace also worked with several chefs and writers on the spring issue of Southern Cultures, focusing on growing recognition of Appalachian foodways as a traditional branch of Southern cuisine.

“Every day, it gives me the chance to do what I love for an audience that cares deeply about Southern culture,” said Wallace, who is working on a collection of essays and illustrations on track to be published in 2018 by the University of Texas Press.

— Jill Warren Lucas

Grandma Wallace’s Pimento Cheese

As a girl, Emily Wallace ’10 (MA) greatly enjoyed her grandmother’s pimento cheese. Years later, the spread played a key role in Wallace’s master’s thesis in UNC’s folklore program as she researched and wrote about Eugenia Duke, creator of Duke’s brand mayonnaise. In addition to sharing her grandmother’s simple recipe, she recommends using Duke’s. 

1 pound sharp cheddar, grated
1 4-ounce jar diced pimento, drained
4 tablespoons mayonnaise
½ teaspoon mustard
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar

 Combine all ingredients. Keep refrigerated.

Share via: